Leah Spooner - Wine

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Leah’s Likes: Top 10 Ontario Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir. One of the most terroir reflective grapes you can find. Hard to grow, but in the right climate, and hands of clever winemakers, this wine can check all the boxes of a purely satisfying tasting experience. My life in the wine industry has gifted me with the opportunity to taste several of the most acclaimed Pinot Noir from all around the world, from some of the best producers. While Bourgogne, New Zealand, and Oregon, have some of my favourite bottles of this variety, it’s Ontario, Canada, that remains my selection of choice.

What strikes a chord with me about Ontario Pinot Noir, specifically in the Prince Edward County and Niagara regions, is its’ ability to showcase itself in a way of entirety. The best examples of cool climate Ontario Pinot retain balanced, vibrant acidity, with ripe as well as tart red fruits, subtle and unique earthy tones, and an unparalleled display of Ontario’s rare minerality in texture and flavour. They’re approachable, yet complex and refined.

To try to be even more specific on flavour, some of my favourite examples below include a special earthy note of fall maple leaves, a seasonal occurrence from our national tree! As for minerality, and addressing Prince Edward County in particular, their special soil, (Hillier Loam is an example), contains a flavour and texture that my palate adores!

Making a top ten list was surprisingly easy. Although we have an abundance of excellent Pinot Noir here in Ontario, my top ten are mainly based on a wow-factor I experienced the first time I tasted any of these wines. There are a few, however, I feel like deserve to be on this list, and reluctantly had to leave out.

So, here they are, in no particular order…

Tawse Laidlaw Vineyard Pinot Noir

This VQA Pinot comes from Vinemount Ridge, the highest sub-appellation in Niagara, Ontario. It also has the shortest growing season, which is why Pinot Noir is one of its main varietals as an early ripening grape. There is an incredibly enticing and fragrant bouquet of cedar, cherry, pomegranate, rose, and brush/forest. This is one of those wines that’s so enjoyable to nose, you can find yourself doing more sniffing than sipping! The palate is woodsy with pomegranate, cranberry, tea, and red cherry notes. A creamy mouthfeel, and an entirely compelling wine. One worth aging 5-10 years.

Tawse produces and has produced many wonderful Pinot Noir across their portfolio, including Cherry Ave., as well as their Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir that can be found year-round in Vintages for $25.95.

Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir

This Pinot Noir is cultivated from the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The terroir, including diverse soils, and proximity to Lake Ontario, seem to concoct a perfect recipe for Ontario Pinot Noir.

This small lot, made by winemaker Emma Garner, has aromas of bright red cherry, rhubarb, and a freshly planted garden with roses and soil! On the palate there’s fantastic Niagara acidity, with notes of red cherry, cranberry, dried raspberry, black tea, and some clove on a long finish. A light, and bright, yet serious Pinot from the Thirty Bench Small Lot series.

Leaning Post Senchuk Vineyard Pinot Noir

Wet stone, winterberry, mushroom and blueberry compote aromas give an intriguing introduction to this earthy Pinot Noir from the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation. Energetic acidity and upfront minerality spiral through black raspberry, basil, and dried fig, caressed by rounded and sturdy tannins. A lengthy, and savoury finish. This exceptional wine begs to see a decade in the bottle. This one is a must for your cellar!

Rosehall Run JCR Pinot Noir

This wine is 100% Pinot Noir from Prince Edward County. This Pinot Noir is grown on the estate JCR vineyard that’s comprised on a unique Hillier Loam soil. Rosehall Run’s vineyards produce wine with a distinct mineral drive that’s only found in Prince Edward County.

Red fruits and florals dominate the nose with notes of cranberry, raspberry, rose, and violets.

The palate consists of to-die-for acidity aside red fruits: sour cherry, strawberry, and cranberry. Fall leaves, and sage notes, with well structured tannins framing the flavours. Excellent finish!

Closson Chase Churchside Vineyard Pinot Noir

A pure, ethereal, cool-climate Pinot Noir from the Churchside Vineyard of Closson Chase. Seamlessly balanced flavours of red cherry, cranberry, cedar, black tea, dried herbs, and baking spices envelope the palate. Drinking beautifully now, but definitely cellar worthy. It’s no secret that Closson Chase is producing some of the best Pinot in Canada. Their lineup of Pinot consists of two single vineyard, representing the nuances of micro-climates in PEC, to a vineyard Pinot, to a new, high end Pinot. All are highly recommended, but the Churchside stands above the rest with it’s pristine tension, balance, and elegance.

Stanner’s Vineyard Narrow Rows Pinot Noir

This wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir from Prince Edward County, Canada.

Intense and enticing aromas of cherry, chocolate, vanilla, strawberry compote, and blueberry.

The palate is medium bodied with ripe fruit that reflects the warm 2018 vintage. Notes of strawberry compote, chocolate, and crushed cherry. Really nice acidity and minerality, both charming characteristics of a great Pinot Noir from the County. Winemaker Colin Stanner’s wines don’t necessarily fit the mold of most wines from this region. They tend to have more of a smooth ripeness and heft that don’t necessarily align to others from PEC, making them a definite standout for innovation and quality.

Exult Estates Love Block Pinot Noir

A Prince Edward County Pinot Noir that comes from a preferred single clone by winemaker Gerry Spinosa, hence “The Beloved”. Vibrant and complex aromas of cinnamon, cola, lilacs, and tree bark exude from the glass. Enthralling acidity, with cranberry and fennel notes tracing around hints of minerality. Burgundian style from start to finish. Smooth, balanced, debonaire.

Redtail Vineyards Pinot Noir

This wine made by winemaker Lee Baker is made up 100% Pinot Noir grown on the Twenty Mile Bench sub region of the Niagara Peninsula.

Cinnamon dominates the highly aromatic nose. Cola, red cherry, fig, and ripe red fruits make up the rest of the bouquet.

The palate is juicy and savoury with great acidity, and an impressively balanced tannin structure. Notes of red and dark cherries, strawberry compote, fig, and some black tea on the long finish. Easy-drinking, flavourful, and one of my go-to wines!

Bachelder Lowrey Old Vines Pinot Noir

This is one of several outstanding Pinot Noir from winemaker Thomas Bachelder. He is a master of the grape and this one was plucked out of a handful that could’ve made this top ten list.

A single vineyard, small-lot Pinot from old vines of the Lowrey Vineyard on St. David’s Bench. It has complex aromas that are highly floral, with red fruit and subtle oak influence. Linear acidity on the palate with red fruits that expand to earthy notes of cedar and a sun-kissed forest. Balanced and well-integrated tannins contribute an impressive structure, that finishes with a touch of black pepper on a lengthy finish. This is Ontario’s Pinot at it’s finest.

Flatrock Gravity Pinot Noir

This wonderfully structured Pinot Noir by comes from the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation in the Niagara Escarpment.

It has intense floral aromas, as well as cedar, spice, red cherry and cranberry. The palate delivers exciting acidity, polished tannins, and notes of red cherry, strawberry, cedar and nutmeg. A wine that wows you every single vintage.

Even the Flatrock Foundation Pinot Noir stands out as a Pinot with premium quality, and exceptional value. A sturdy structure, delicious, bright flavours, and a long finish. Pinot lovers will want to seek out both of these!

Westcott Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir

If you’re counting, than yes, this is 11…but think of it as a top ten, plus my favourite. Westcott seems to have everything that I love and crave in a Pinot Noir. In fact, it’s quite possible I would’ve scored the Estate 2016 vintage 100pts. To me, it’s the perfect Pinot!

This Pinot Noir opens up with intense, perfumed aromas of cedar, sour cherry, dried roses and violets, dried dill, and cranberry. All of these notes are a telltale of exactly what you will find on the palate. Well structured, and complex, with a soft and creamy mouthfeel. Long finish. Practically perfect!

Well, there you have it! If you’re looking for other Ontario Pinot Noir recos, I still have many more. What are your favourites?