County Crown
What is Prince Edward County’s most coveted wine style? When talking about Ontario’s most northerly DVA, that faces brutally cold winters, what is reverberated as its’ cream of the crop in wine production? The wine that gives winemakers a sense of assurance as a not only a reliable sale, but of a wine that extracts every aspect of terroir from the County, from the chalky limestone soils to the proximity of Lake Ontario. Sparkling wine in Prince Edward County blossoms from the unforgiving landscape, just as diamonds are forged under pressure, to become the crown jewel of the current County wine scene.
The sparkling wine in Prince Edward County, predominately made with the regions badge of cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir, is quite distinguished from any other region in the world to the wine savvy. They truly are terroir first. Soil, for one, is entirely unique. Shallow topsoil over limestone around the local Hillier village have been bestowed its own soil identification: Hillier Clay Loam. From a taster’s perspective, the County’s Hillier Loam, and other limestone-based soils in the area lend to an accountable textural and flavourful chalkiness and mineral aspect that adds remarkable structure and complexity to its sparkling wines.
Because of the distinction and quality PEC Sparkling Wine can possess, it should be given its own sub-appellation under the Vinter’s Quality Alliance as VQA Prince Edward County Crown VQA. Titled as such not only for a style of closure used sporadically in this region for sparkling wines, but more so for sparkling wines’ prominence within the County, and its role in catapulting the small region’s rise to fame in just over two decades. Should Prince Edward County receive this acclaimed appellation, it would be the second appellation in Canada to be classified by a specific wine style within a specific region - Tidal Bay in Nova Scotia being the first and only.
Currently, there is a tiered quality system in place for sparkling PEC wine:
Traditional Method Sparkling wine is sits at the top. Among other regulations, it must spend 9 months on lees for a non-vintage wine, and 12 months for a vintage wine, must be made from Vitis Vinifera, and qualify to be labelled with an appellation. Ex. Traditional Method VQA Prince Edward County VQA.
Directly below this level, is Methode Cuve Close. Which, Charmat Method falls under. In this case, tank method can be used, and production method is stated on the label, but the label is declassified to VQA Ontario VQA. Charmat Method sparkling wine has just as much quality potential as Traditional Method, and therefore should be permitted to be labelled as VQA Prince Edward County, should the wine meet all other requirements for Methode Cuve Close.
At the bottom of this hierarchy pyramid is Sparkling Wine that doesn’t reference a production method on the bottle. These wines are usually tank method that don’t meet all the requirements for higher tiers. These wines also can only be labelled with VQA Ontario VQA as a regional designation.
Below are some examples that would fall under County Crown, that are either already VQA approved as Prince Edward County Traditional Method or Charmat Method wine, and contain 100% Prince Edward County grown grapes that would be candidates for suggested new sub-appellation.
Rosehall Run
Rosehall Run is one of PEC’s leading wineries for quality wines that reflect the County’s unique sense of place. They are also one of the pioneering wineries to the area, establishing themselves in 2001.
Stardust 2013
A traditional method cuvée of two of Rosehall Run’s flagship grapes - 57% Pinot Noir and 43% Chardonnay. Bottle age and lees aging create seductive aromas of croissant, apple orchard, honeysuckle, and dried mango. A creamy petillance and trickling flavours of honey, croissant, pear, and cinnamon apples. There’s a charming sweetness wrapped up in County acidity, and a trail of minerality left on a pending finish. This is what one would assume a bottle of magical Stardust actually tastes like!
Loveless 2017
A mind-bending, traditional method sparkling rosé that’s fashionably balanced, and exudes Rosehall Run’s classic, endearing character.
Made with 100% pinot noir - 87% from the 2017 vintage, and 13% from the 2014 vintage comes a wine with encompassing minerality and acidity. Its fine and delicate mousse envelopes baked strawberry, ripe raspberry, and ruby grapefruit notes.
Ceremony Blanc de Blancs NV
This is a traditional method sparkling wine made with 100% Chardonnay from the estate North and South block estate plantings. It has a wonderful nose of caramel, toffee, red apple, honey, and toasty kernel notes that are reflected on the palate. In addition, lemon and brioche flavours rush in on a piercing, linear acidity. Creamy, with perfect perlage and a chalky texture that establishes itself towards an extensive finish.
Broken Stone Winery
Broken Stone Winery has been around for just over a decade and already has a portfolio stacked with high-quality Prince Edward County wines.
Amour 2018
I first tasted this incredible sparkling rosé at the Judgement of Kingston 2022, where it ultimately placed 3rd (but higher on my list). It’s crafted with estate 61% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Noir, and 13% Pinot Meunier.
A sweet sentiment to the name – the grandmother and matriarch of the vineyards signed all her letters to her grandchildren “Amour, Nanni”. The label is even a replica of her handwriting.
This wine has a wildly interesting nose of blood orange, starfruit, passion fruit, honeysuckle, raspberry, and a faint hint of black licorice.
The palate delivers complex texture with delicate perlage. Concentrated, with nice depth and a chalky mouthfeel, yet remains fresh and lifted, leaving a long finish.
Broken Stone Exuberance Sparkling Riesling 2021
This Riesling is sourced from old vines from one of the oldest vineyards in Prince Edward County, being planted in 2000.
On the nose - wildflowers, melon, apricot, and candied lemon. Fine bubbles and balanced acidity uplift honey, hay, and chalky notes. There’s a touch of sweetness. Fun, and easy drinking, but still maintains complexity.
Broken Stone Power Take Off Sparkling Red 2021
A blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Gamay. When you think of a bubbly red, this is exactly what I would dream it to taste like.
An original wine that displays playful bubbles whimsically dancing in a glass full of freshly picked raspberries and dried cranberry. Racy acidity that carries juicy red fruit notes and cloaks an off-dry sweetness. There’s even a soft tannin structure here that is remarkably balanced. Exceptional.
Lighthall Vineyards
Lighthall Vineyards produces small-batch wines and make their own sheep’s milk cheese to pair.
The Fence
A County Pinot Noir sparkling wine crafted using the Charmat method. Aromas of bubblegum, strawberries and sweet tarts lead to a palate that includes
baked strawberries, and raspberries. The bright red fruit notes and balanced acidity flood all edges of the palate and leave a fine, chalky mouth-coating texture and a lengthy finish.
Skilled winemaking is at the forefront of my mind when a wine has a playful palate with solid structural elements, and this wine has just that.
Culmination Nature 2019
This is a traditional method Blanc de Blanc made with 100% Prince Edward County chardonnay.
Warm aromas of caramel, toffee, baked pear, and golden apple all follow through on the palate. Two years of lees aging lends to pleasant French pastry and almond notes, accompanied by telltale PEC mineral/chalky edges. Persistent finish. Cool climate chardonnay precision at its finest!
Hinterland
Hinterland winery produces the majority of sparkling wine that is made in Prince Edward County. They specialize in high-quality, traditional method sparkling wine.
Hinterland Blanc de Noirs Traditional Method 2018
This traditional method sparkling is 100% Pinot Noir from Hinterland’s estate. It showcases beautiful floral and strawberry aromas. The palate is lively and fresh, with that Prince Edward County vibrancy. Fine, playful bubbles, bright red fruit, and a persistent finish.
Hinterland Les Etoiles Traditional Method 2018
Cultivated from the unique Hillier Clay-Loam soils, this traditional method sparkling is made from estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Apple orchard, ripe pineapple, and pecan aromas follow through on a creamy, rich palate. Warming, ripe apple notes and a touch of baking spice delivered on chalky and leesy textural elements and refreshing acidity. Terrific depth, and a crisp, lengthy finish.
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Other VQA approved sparkling
The following are examples of VQA Sparkling Wine that wouldn’t fall under the suggested sub-appellation, as they don’t contain 100% Prince Edward County grapes, or they may not meet the requirements of a VQA Traditional Method or Cuvee Close Method sparkling wine, but they are worth seeking out as exciting sparkling wines available in the PEC region.
Rosehall Run Indigo 2021
This wine is technically a mashup of both estate vineyards in Prince Edward County and Nedelko vineyards on the Twenty Mile Bench in Niagara. A blend of muscat ottonel, chardonnay, riesling and gewurztraminer that’s made using the Charmat Method. Notes of mums, mandarin, cantaloupe, and honey. Off-dry and maintains a lengthy ripe fruit and mineral finish.
Trail Estate
Trail Estate is a winery known for pushing the envelope with their old-becomes-new-again winemaking styles. Their Pet-Nat are wildly popular, and for good reason.
Pet Nat Red 2022
A combination of 15% Cabernet Franc and 25% Baco Noir from estate vineyards, with 57% Riesling from Hughes Vineyard, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon from Grimsby Hillside in Niagara.
Luscious aromas of red liquorice, strawberry, ripe raspberry, and dried violets. The palate sings silky, bright notes of red cherry, ruby grapefruit, rhubarb, and tomato leaf wrapped in high voltage acidity. Fine tannin. Something new in every sip! Long finish.
Pet Nat White 2022
This Pet Nat is cultivated with 60% late harvest Riesling and 40% Sauvignon Blanc from Hughes Vineyard in Niagara. Although it doesn’t reflect PEC soil, it does reflect winemaker and vineyard manager Mackenzie Brisbois’ PEC style!
Aromas of ginger, jasmine, and yellow plum. The palate relays nicely balanced acid, delicate effervescence and notes of mango, yellow plum, and mandarin. A malty, crisp, and bitter finish. Juicy and refreshing!
Colouring outside the lines of VQA wine
While not all Prince Edward County sparkling wines fall under the VQA umbrella, mainly due to blending with grapes that are not VQA approved, or meet specific production methods, there are others that deserve mention as shop-worthy bubbles from this DVA.
Trail Estate Field of Dreams 2022
A blend of Geisenheim, Gewurztraminer, and Chardonnay from estate vineyards. Orange peel, dill, and pineapple on the nose. Light-bodied and citric bursts of candied lemon, grapefruit, and orange. Invigorating acidity, with a mineral element that corkscrews down the pipeline of the palate. Gentle fizz and a long finish. I could go on but this is easily summed up as delicious, electric lemonade.
Karlo Estates
Another winery that represents Prince Edward County’s innovative and cutting-edge style is Karlo Estates. This winery produced the very first certified vegan wine in the world! Their entire portfolio is vegan certified…and delicious.
Karlo Estates is located in Prince Edward County, but this sparkling wine is made with grapes sourced from Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada.
Bubble 2021
This Charmat method vegan wine is produced with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Delicate aromas of green grape, guava, and melon, with caramel nuances. A gentle effervescence delivers a medium-bodied palate with notes of lime, apple and pear adding complexity. This sparkling wraps up with a flavourful and lengthy finish.
Canada itself is a young wine country that boasts such diverse wine regions, climates, varietals, and wine styles. The most wonderful thing about the wines of Canada is that ultimately, they are made entirely under the creative control of the producers themselves. However, implementing a new sub-appellation category for those willing to be involved would most certainly raise quality standards as well as regional recognition, create more meaningful consumer connections, and act as another foothold in the escalation of Canadian wine.