Niagara Terroir: A Gamay Expression - Bachelder’s La Violette Terroir Pack
You can’t navigate the Canadian wine world without hearing the name “Bachelder”. A winery that creates exceptional wines made by winemaker, Thomas Bachelder, that reflect the unique Niagara terroir in which they are grown, and as they say it, portray a “sense of place”. Bachelder has been releasing their terroir wine packs twice a year, since November 2019. They focus on showcasing the terroir of different cru vineyards in Niagara, which are among some of the top growing sites in the country.
Thomas Bachelder started off as a student of the vine in Bourgogne, where he truly developed his craft focusing on Pinot Noir, until a tasting at a classmates’, Domaine Morey Cave, fell in love with Chardonnay. Eventually, Bachelder’s passion for wine lead to him sustaining three cellars across the globe. The cool climate specialist cultivates wine in Canada, Oregon, and Bourgogne. Now, he is detailing Niagara vineyards and leading the charge to exhibit the best of Ontario soils.
Following the Burgundians by turning to Gamay when Pinot Noir is short on supply, and because Gamay grows so well in Niagara, Bachelder cultivated La Violette, a Gamay Noir focused pack. La Violette Terroir Pack, (named after Thomas and Mary’s daughter), includes mostly Gamay Noir, with one Chardonnay and one Pinot Noir. These wines are made from the Niagara Cru vineyards of Wismer-Foxcroft, Bai Xu, Willms, and a few bottles labelled “les Villages”. The single vineyard Gamay Noir each successfully display their terroir with considerable depth and quality. The Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay labelled “les Villages” all have a commonality of approachable, easy-drinking playfulness, yet still quite striking depth.
The detailed reviews of each are as follows…
Bachelder Bai Xu Gamay Noir 2019
Niagara Cru - 20% Whole Cluster
This Gamay Noir comes from 30 year old vines in the Bai Xu Cru Vineyard within the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation. An intensely aromatic perfume of red plum, cedar, moss, and a freshly cut bouquet of flowers. Both tart and baked red berry fruit, with subtle woodsy notes are encompassed by juicy acidity on the palate. Savoury spice on the edges, with a lingering finish. Drinking beautifully now. Score-93
Bachelder Willms “les Naturistes” Gamay Noir 2019
Niagara Cru – 55% Whole Cluster
From the Willms Cru Vineyard, a 55% whole-cluster Gamay Noir. Seductive aromas of roses, graphite, incense, and ripe raspberries lead to a silky palate beaming with pure red fruit. Wet stone and flint highlight through layers of dried cranberry, earth and dark chocolate. A well-balanced vein of acidity courses through a depth of umami, before ending with a gentle squeeze of tannin on the finish. Score-92
Bachelder Wismer-Foxcroft Gamay Noir 2019
Niagara Cru - 22% Whole Cluster
This wine is a depiction of the Wismer-Foxcroft Vineyard’s terroir in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of Niagara. Charmingly perfumed with pretty floral aromas, raspberry coulis, and fresh wood shavings. The palate is captivating, and seamless with expansive acidity and fine tannins. Edgy minerality, cocoa, and black coffee hint through tart red berry, and savoury flavours. Persistent finish. Worth a revisit in 3-5 years. Score-93
Bachelder Wismer-Foxcroft Gamay Noir 2019
Niagara Cru - 52% Whole Cluster
This Gamay Noir comes from 20+ year old vines from the Wismer-Foxcroft Vineyard in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of Niagara. A broad spectrum of aromas from floral to meaty to spice preludes a more eccentric version of Gamay from this release. Bright red cherry and energetic acidity glisten along a palate of tight tannin structure that would lend itself gracefully to some aging. The minerality is the divine driving force of this wine, both in flavour and texture. It concludes with a long and savoury finish. Score-95
Bachelder “les Villages” Gamay Noir 2019
A Gamay Noir from the Niagara Peninsula that is made up of five different small lot fermentations, and is 28% whole-cluster. Baked strawberry, ripe raspberry, violets, and lilacs on the nose with some earthy undertones reminiscent of a spring rain. Electric acidity buzzes through a concentrated palate of tart red fruit, and a silky mouthfeel paralleled by some chalky minerality. Admirable depth and fantastic length. Score-92
Bachelder “les Villages” Chardonnay 2019
Right off the bat this wine is talking! An aromatic Chardonnay that exudes candied lemon, walnut, dried apricot, a fresh bouquet of lilies, and a hint of butter. A creamy, rich palate with a strong charge of Niagara acidity. Fresh golden apples, creamed honey, lemon peel, almond, and a caress of distinct minerality lead to an everlasting finish. Winemaker Thomas Bachelder is the king of Chardonnay. Score-94
Bachelder “les Villages” Pinot Noir 2019
Complex aromas of fresh cherries, cedar, dried roses, and a whisper of mushroom. The palate showcases Niagara’s signature lifting acidity, and some lacey tannins. A fantastic balance of fruit and earth that don’t seem loud, but subtle and interesting, like a jazz song playing on each sip. Just like the Gamay les Villages and the Chardonnay les Villages of this series, this wine is playful but displays depth. Score-92
Bachelder’s objective to essentially map out the Niagara terroir is highly admired by insiders and general consumers in the Canadian wine community. When asked about his motivation to pursue such an undertaking, the response was that he was a “curious creature, and loves discovering terroir, so it only makes sense this would lead to mapping Niagara”. Something that seems so simply stated as a matter of fact, when the fact of the matter is that Bachelder is an icon for the Canadian wine revolution.
These 7 wines, although distinct with the precision of Thomas Bachelder’s winemaking, along with Niagara terroir, are so unique and special in their own distinctness. Bachelder’s exposition of diversity these cru vineyards possess is just as much astonishing as it is impressive. Any passionate Canadian wine lover would find this terroir pack intriguing, informative, and exciting to taste through. An innovative, beautiful representation of Niagara terroir!