Shedding a Light On Four Shadows

Four Shadows Vineyard and Winery is owned by Joka and Wilbert Borren. A couple that originally came from Holland, and began farming in Alberta where they raised their family. The Borren family grew and eventually sold their farm when they decided to dive in to a new farming adventure in 2011 by buying 17 acres of vineyard property in Penticton, British Columbia. After growing and selling their grapes to other wineries for seven years, they took the leap and started making their own wine with grapes from their 2017 vintage. With the help from Lindsay O’Rourke from Tightrope winery, Joka and Wilbert produced their first estate wines with Merlot and Pinot Noir.

The Four Shadows label reflects the Borren’s strong family values, as it depicts a photograph of their four sons during a family vacation in Mexico. They claim that each of their wines has unique characteristics and personality, just as their sons do. The importance of family reaches further than the label on the bottle. Joka and Wilbert have created a winery to feel like an extension of their home. They want visitors to experience a place of comfort and fun, regardless of whether they are wine novices or experts.

The type of inclusiveness Four Shadows aims to project is a wonderful parallel to the Canadian wine industry as a whole. Our industry is incredibly supportive in a way that we are all just routing for each other. This is proven in the way that Four Shadows, a part of the Naramata Bench Winery Association, share marketing techniques with one another, and how Four Shadows get consistently recommended by other wineries on the Bench.

As I tasted through most of the Four Shadows portfolio, I was struck by the quality of the wines coming from this new craft winery. The Naramata Bench, that gained sub-appellation status in 2019, produces wines that showcase a range of juicy fruits along with balance and depth, and this winery has eagerly grasped the regions capabilities. Their whites show complexity with exceptional flavours that are a reflection of terroir and seem effortlessly balanced with acidity. The reds offer complexity and depth in formulas that I’ve only tasted from this specific region in British Columbia.

The owners’ favourites are their Merlot, and in the summer Joka favours the Riesling Dry, while her husband, Wilbert, prefers the Riesling Classic. I personally think their whites are outstanding, but of course, I have a soft spot for Pinot Noir. (Full reviews on the lineup below!)

So, what does the future have in store for this budding winery? With a solid foundation of exceptional wines, the potential seems eminent. Joka and Wilbert say that their sons are busy pursuing their own careers, but one has been helping during the summers while home from university. One thing that seems familiar worldwide with these family wineries that I’ve often encountered is that even when the children leave to pursue their own dreams, eventually at least one of the children always come back to the vineyard! And with a debut like this, I think that the Four Shadows Vineyard and Winery’s future looks exceptionally bright.

Here are my reviews on the lineup:

Merlot 2018

Enticing red licorice, vanilla, and baked blackberry aromas give an engaging introduction to this unfiltered Merlot from the Okanagan Valley. A core of ripe fruit that includes blackberry, black raspberry and purple plums fills the palate and is embraced by lifting acidity and a soft, but sturdy tannin structure. Waves of savoury notes of cooked mushroom, earth, and nutmeg come in on a memorable finish. Drink or hold, but I think this Merlot will be in its’ sweet spot in the next 3-5 years.

Riesling Dry 2020

Aromas of peach, guava, apricot, elderflower, and petrol divulge exactly what is to be expected on the intensely flavourful palate of this Riesling from the Naramata Bench. A striking mouthfeel with electric acidity that buzzes through tiers of textural minerality, and a prolonged finish.

Riesling Classic 2020

Inviting aromas greet the nose with succulent notes of cantaloupe, candied lemon, and elderflower. Fantastic depth on the fruity and fresh palate that brings in honeysuckle and guava, along with impressive textural minerality. Notable sweetness is finely dispersed and carefully woven throughout bracing acidity. Extra long finish.

Pinot Noir 2018

This is the second vintage of this Pinot Noir from Four Shadows winery in Penticton, B.C. Floral aromas exude from the glass - lilacs and violets, with baked raspberry, cranberry and cola. The medium bodied palate shows notable complexity with savoury flavours of ripe red fruit, fine black pepper, rosemary, and earthy edges. Silky tannins and a spicy finish.

Chardonnay 2019

An elegant, full-bodied Chardonnay from the Naramata Bench. Complex aromas of pear, nectarine, kiwi, almond, and smokey minerality. A clean, silky palate with extremely well integrated and seamless stone fruit flavours with white pepper edges and balanced acidity. Long finish.

Rosé 2020

Incredibly fragrant, proud aromas of ripe raspberry, candied strawberry, and French vanilla jump out of the glass of this 2020 Pinot Noir and Merlot rosé blend. A decadent palate with some sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity, ripe strawberry and grapefruit notes. There’s also a nice vein of minerality adding depth. Definitely a crowd pleaser that would pair well with pizza and summer nights!