The ‘cool’ kid: Cabernet franc’s moment is now
While cabernet sauvignon plays the role of all-star athlete as the world of wine’s most widely grown – and consumed grape in the world – it is in fact its parent grape, cabernet franc, that has earned its stripes as the “cool” kid on the vineyard block.
Cabernet franc has been a blending grape in Bordeaux for centuries but is also commonly used as a single varietal in the Loire Valley of France. However, in the past couple of decades, grape growers in other cool-climate regions have been steadily investing in this grape for single varietal wine production due to its early-ripening and disease-resistant tendencies. For cabernet franc, the result has been a rapid snowballing effect to stardom.
Cabernet franc typically shows as an intensely perfumed, medium to full-bodied wine that’s suitable for aging. The grape expresses itself so differently from one region to the next, while keeping a few characteristic traits the same: finesse, complexity, and carries potential for optimal structural balance in the hands of the right winemaker.
It’s ability to capture the essence of the landscape on which it is grown seems to be a little more fine-tuned and detailed than its offspring, and exhibits a genius in its area of expertise – a cool-climate.
The stylistic, edgy profile of a cool-climate cabernet franc from these regions results directly in rave reviews and high scores from wine critics, but also suits the movement of the modern wine lovers’ palate and drinking trends.
Ontario, Canada
As a cold-hardy grape, cabernet franc thrives in Canada’s cooler wine growing regions. Its rise in Ontario has been steadfast and now represents some of the best wines being put forth by top winemakers in the province.
Wines to try:
Mason Vineyard 2022 ‘The Landed’ Cabernet Franc
This unfiltered cabernet franc reveals itself with flashy and complex aromas of flint, black cherry, roses and forest. Medium-bodied, with impressive depth. Intense red fruit, earth and mushroom notes to only name a few. Juicy acidity drives a full-contact, well-knit structure that provides famed Twenty Mile Bench mineral elements and carries all majestic intricacies through an extended finish. A cool-climate cab franc full of wonderment and awe! ($55)
Lighthall 2021 Cabernet Franc
This is a low-intervention, juicy cabernet franc from Prince Edward County, Ontario. It opens with a nose of sweet blackberry jam and wildflowers prior to flaunting its bright, medium-bodied, ripe raspberry and dark cherry noted palate. Tobacco and black tea chime in along with a lining of velvet tannins that give a gentle squeeze on a lingering finish. Ready to drink now. ($30.80)
Loire Valley, France
Cabernet franc, aka Breton in the Loire region, is believed to have been planted as early as the 17th century. With the cooler-climate of the Loire Valley, cabernet franc has long been a front-runner for winemakers, allowing for plenty of old vines to be harvested from today. With its rich winemaking history and unique soils, the classic Loire styles are being re-discovered by consumers amongst the grapes’ new popularity.
Try this wine:
Le Clos du Château de Parnay Saumur Champigny 2018
A dark and mysterious cabernet franc that’s deeply coloured and opens with entrancing aromas of blackberry and graphite. Wrapped in tannins comparable to a tight, stretchy leather coat on the palate. Earth and ripe cherry notes, with a mineral essence adding further complexities. Great length. Worth a decant for at least two hours to unveil its true depth. ($48.95)
Mendoza, Argentina
The Andes Mountains, vineyard altitudes, and passion for soil expedition are a few of the contributing factors to the greatness of cabernet franc in Argentina.
In 2016, it was winemaker Alejandro Vigil’s Gran Enemigo Gualtallary 2013 that received the world’s first 100 point score for a cabernet franc. A monumental moment in wine history as the catalyst that turned heads towards the significance of this grape in Mendoza.
Wine to try:
Gran Enemigo 2020 ‘El Cepillo’ Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Winemaker Alejandro Vigil has crafted this wine with his perfectly balanced ratio for his single-vineyard wines (made with 85% cabernet franc and 15% malbec). The high-altitude vineyard of El Cepillo rests at 1300m a.s.l. within the Uco Valley of Mendoza that contributes a noteworthy phenolic intensity and freshness to the grapes grown here. Blackberries, dates, and thyme flavours can be plucked out of layers of complexity. Vibrant and whimsical. Exceptional length.
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